Wednesday, June 25, 2014

Fourth (of July) Moneta

Apparently I just can't stop....I made a fourth Moneta. I wanted to try out the other collars, what can I say?

4th of July Moneta

Girl Charlee is having a 4th of July contest, so I thought I'd give it a shot. I have already been envying all the cute nautical fabrics and garments people have been sewing up the last couple years, so I'm joining the herd (late as usual).

4th of July Moneta

There's really not much left to say about this pattern. The tie collar went together quite easily. It calls for interfacing, but I did not since I was using ponte knit so it was pretty firm to begin with.

4th of July Moneta
I adore the back of this dress!

4th of July Moneta
This picture just cracks me up. I was making a face at Soren, who was "helping" take pictures.

I would recommend using serger thread that matches your collar, as the the serging will show just a tad underneath the tie collar (where the gap is in the front). I used white, so it's pretty visible. I think I'm going to sharpie the threads in the front to make them blend a bit more.

Also, the jersey I made this with (Girl Charlee Anchors Away) wasn't particularly stretchy, and holy moly, I could tell it when I put it on. I am POURED in the top of this, and my rolls are visible in the back, so I may be giving it to my sister if I can't loose some weight soon. Apparently I need to size up to the large when using less-stretchy fabric.

In addition to the dress, I made the boys matching tanks using Rae's Flashback Skinny Tee and trimming the arms down a bit to make it more tanky.

4th of July Outfits

4th of July Outfits
As you can see,the troops were not feeling particularly cooperative for this photoshoot.

4th of July Outfits
The promise of M&Ms in "just a minute" has lost its appeal.

4th of July Outfits
And Mama smiles wistfully as she dreams of running off to join the circus

I was thinking I'd just use the same dimensions as the collar binding and bind the armholes, then I decided that 1" was too wide to look good, so I cut them in half, which then left me with too narrow a strip to do my usual double-up and serge on. So, I applied it like bias binding on the front, turned it to the back and stitched it down, leaving the edge of the binding raw. I assume being knit it's not going anywhere. I kind of like the look of the skinny binding--almost like piping!

4th of July Flashback Skinny Tee

4th of July Flashback Skinny Tee

Brotherly Love (or, "Make This One Good, and It'll Be the Last One!")

Thursday, June 5, 2014

More Monetas

I was pleased enough with Moneta Version 1 enough that I wanted to try some of the other variations.

First up, I tried the sleeved version. I used a super-cheap fabric from JoAnn's red-tag clearance, and paid for it in frustration if not money. The stripes were printed horribly, horribly off-grain; I tried pinning the stripes themselves together (ignoring the grain), and eve that didn't work, the wavered and wobbled all of the place.

In the end, I gave up, hoping that on a moving target, and with most of the world being non-sewers it would the sloping pattern would be relatively unnoticeable.

Look at those sloping stripes!!

My thoughts after making this version--the neck is too wide for my tastes--I have bra issues with it, which is always annoying. Also, my jersey is so thin, I really wish I had made the lined bodice, but since the booklet didn't include instructions for lining it with anything but the sleeveless, collared version, I wasn't brave enough to try. I will probably create a binding for the neck if I do this one again. The sleeves fit in quite easily, though, and I like the length of the short-sleeves as is.

After I finished version 2, I saw Cashmerette's maxi-fied Moneta. After watching other people rock maxis for a couple of years, I had been thinking I might get on the bandwagon and had been pondering buying a pattern. But Jenny's Moneta maxi looked fab and would allow me to get more mileage out of the one pattern.

I had bought this beautiful ombre fabric (also rad-tag clearance from JoAnn's) with a maxi-something in mind. After inspecting the fabric, I again discovered it was printed hideously off-grain (yes, yes, now I know why they were in the red-tag clearance section). This time, instead of just giving up on getting well-matched stripes, I went back and traced out the full-version of the "cut on the fold" pieces after I had lengthened my skirt pieces.  Those were some ginormous pattern pieces, let me tell you. But, it worked--I was able to line up the pieces along the stripes and get it relatively straight.

Since the jersey was very, very thin, I decided to take the plunge and attempt the lined, uncollared version without having explicit directions to follow. Since I have next to no experience lining garments, I don't know if I did it correctly, but I ended up using the same technique with the neck as what Colette instructs for doing the arm holes--pinching together the SA from inside the put-together bodices and sewing from one shoulder seam to the other and then stopping, re-pinching and sewing from shoulder-to-shoulder on the other side of the neckhole. For some reason I still found this a highly stressful process, despite knowing that it should work having done it 4 previous times.

The neck width is much better on this one. However, the armhole gape, which I had attributed to having stretched out my version 1 armholes with unpicking serging is still present. I didn't unpick anything and worked hard not to overstretch this version, so I think this is just a pattern/fit and possibly fabric-suitability issue. I'm not sure how to correct this in a knit--do the armscythes need reshaping? Is the bodice actually too big? too small? I used the medium bodice, though I was right on the edge of medium/large in sizing. I'm not sure what's causing it, but I also noticed some other folks mentioning arm-gape, so I'm not the only one with the issue.

Bonus adorable Soren pic!