Thursday, June 5, 2014

More Monetas

I was pleased enough with Moneta Version 1 enough that I wanted to try some of the other variations.

First up, I tried the sleeved version. I used a super-cheap fabric from JoAnn's red-tag clearance, and paid for it in frustration if not money. The stripes were printed horribly, horribly off-grain; I tried pinning the stripes themselves together (ignoring the grain), and eve that didn't work, the wavered and wobbled all of the place.

In the end, I gave up, hoping that on a moving target, and with most of the world being non-sewers it would the sloping pattern would be relatively unnoticeable.

Look at those sloping stripes!!

My thoughts after making this version--the neck is too wide for my tastes--I have bra issues with it, which is always annoying. Also, my jersey is so thin, I really wish I had made the lined bodice, but since the booklet didn't include instructions for lining it with anything but the sleeveless, collared version, I wasn't brave enough to try. I will probably create a binding for the neck if I do this one again. The sleeves fit in quite easily, though, and I like the length of the short-sleeves as is.

After I finished version 2, I saw Cashmerette's maxi-fied Moneta. After watching other people rock maxis for a couple of years, I had been thinking I might get on the bandwagon and had been pondering buying a pattern. But Jenny's Moneta maxi looked fab and would allow me to get more mileage out of the one pattern.

I had bought this beautiful ombre fabric (also rad-tag clearance from JoAnn's) with a maxi-something in mind. After inspecting the fabric, I again discovered it was printed hideously off-grain (yes, yes, now I know why they were in the red-tag clearance section). This time, instead of just giving up on getting well-matched stripes, I went back and traced out the full-version of the "cut on the fold" pieces after I had lengthened my skirt pieces.  Those were some ginormous pattern pieces, let me tell you. But, it worked--I was able to line up the pieces along the stripes and get it relatively straight.

Since the jersey was very, very thin, I decided to take the plunge and attempt the lined, uncollared version without having explicit directions to follow. Since I have next to no experience lining garments, I don't know if I did it correctly, but I ended up using the same technique with the neck as what Colette instructs for doing the arm holes--pinching together the SA from inside the put-together bodices and sewing from one shoulder seam to the other and then stopping, re-pinching and sewing from shoulder-to-shoulder on the other side of the neckhole. For some reason I still found this a highly stressful process, despite knowing that it should work having done it 4 previous times.

The neck width is much better on this one. However, the armhole gape, which I had attributed to having stretched out my version 1 armholes with unpicking serging is still present. I didn't unpick anything and worked hard not to overstretch this version, so I think this is just a pattern/fit and possibly fabric-suitability issue. I'm not sure how to correct this in a knit--do the armscythes need reshaping? Is the bodice actually too big? too small? I used the medium bodice, though I was right on the edge of medium/large in sizing. I'm not sure what's causing it, but I also noticed some other folks mentioning arm-gape, so I'm not the only one with the issue.

Bonus adorable Soren pic!


  1. If you want to line the bodice with sleeves, make it like you would if it were sleeveless, just don't close up the armholes and then continue on following the sleeve directions. A lot of children's clothes do it that way. If you'd like a seamless finish, secure the sleeves to the bodice, fold the lining under and blind stitch to the sleeve seam.