Thursday, September 18, 2014
Bicycle Reglisse Dress
When I saw Deer & Doe's newest pattern, the Bruyere Shirt, I had to have it. In order to make shipping from France worth it, I spent some time scoping out all their offerings and noticed this dress, the Reglisse, which they released last spring. It's adorable! How was the sewing-blogosphere not all over this? I checked around and only found a handful of people that had blogged it, though all the versions I saw were cute in the extreme. It's the perfect summer dress! So, I snagged it up along with the Belladone, which I've seen a million versions of online.
I had this bicycle fabric, a peachskin from Girl Charlee, which I had originally purchased to try a woven-version of the Myrtle. When it arrived, though, I was shocked at the scale--much larger than I had imagined. I've really got to train myself to look at the dimensions better! Anyway, I felt it was far too large a pattern to work with the cowl-neck, so I set it aside. After I discovered Reglisse, I determined to use the bicycle fabric, even though it was lighter weight than what is called for.
The pattern went together perfectly, though the directions were a bit less detailed than what I've come to expect from indie pattern companies like Colette and Sewaholic. For instance, there was no suggestion to understitch the bias-tape on the collar, and since I wanted to really keep mine from rolling out since it was a contrast color (not entirely successful there), I added this step.
But, in all it was a quite simple little pattern, and I'm not sure why it would be marked intermediate unless it's because the bodice is cut on the bias.
Now, I have to admit, I paid no attention to pattern matching on the bodice. I don't know what I was thinking. I did try to match on the skirt and then just completely forgot about it on the bodice. Oops! I think the ties successfully disguise the mismatch across the front, and I don't have to look at the back, so I can't be too bothered by it.
What does bother me is the rolling collar, although it's fine to look at straight on.
What I love most about this pattern are all the sweet details on the top. It has these clever little flutter-type sleeves that don't require hemming (glory be!), and then the shoulders have kind of a yoke thing--not sure what to call it. The back and front bodice have a little rectangle shoulder piece they both join to, and the front bodice shoulder has soft little gathers. And then of course, the adorable collar and tie. Love!
Swishy circle skirt!
Leaving out the shameful failure to pattern match, otherwise the back fits nicely.
I'm grateful to my mother, who helped me level the hem. Otherwise, it would probably still be hanging (like my Tania culottes) this time next year. I ended up doing a rolled hem on the serger since I didn't have any navy bias tape on hand.
Notes: I made a straight 42, and it fits ok, but next time I plan to lengthen the bodice. It's not sitting at my natural waist. I think I need to add about an inch. The darts are also a bit high, but this fabric was something of a polyester nightmare, and sewing left holes, so although I just basted the darts to start with, I had to put them back in the same spot since the fabric was holey.
All told, I'm really happy with this dress. It came out just about as I'd envisioned. Though a pain, the lightweight fabric works really well, and it's fun and flirty. The boys love it, and I got lots of compliments at work. A definite winner! I'm excited to trace out my Bruyere shirt next.