Sunday, October 19, 2014

Deer & Doe Bruyere Shirt: A Review

Deer & Doe Bruyere Shirt

Bruyere: I think this is only the second pattern I've bought the day it was released. I am one of those people who likes to wait and see how makes are looking in the real world before shelling out almost $20 for a pattern. As soon as I laid eyes on this shirt, though, I was smitten.

I have been admiring everyone's oversized button downs (how many Archer posts have I read??), but I know from experience a big untucked button-down does not look flattering on me. Enter the Bruyere. It's a curvy girl's dream! I love pretty much everything about it--the waistband, the box pleats in the skirt front and back, the beautifully curved hem on the skirt. It's the perfect length, and I even saw where someone had already hacked it to make a dress, which would just involve lengthening the skirts.

So anyway, I HAD TO HAVE IT when I saw it released. On the pattern announcement blog post, I bemoaned the fact that D&D don't release in PDFs, and in reply, Elenore pointed out that actually with the discount, the paper price wasn't that high and I realized that even with shipping, the price was actually less than buying a regular-priced Colette pattern. So, I ended up purchasing 3 patterns to make the shipping from France worth it. After receiving my patterns, I can attest that D&D must take a hit on their international shipping, as I recall it was postmarked 10 Euros, and I think they only charged 5 or 6 Euros. For 3 patterns and shipping, I think my entire purchase was about $35 (dollars, not Euros). I will definitely buy from D&D again at those prices. I hate paying the shipping at Colette, which is around $6 and you can clearly see it only costs about $2 for the postage.

On to the actual pattern....I originally traced a size 42. Muslined the bodice and an arm and decided it was going to be too small, and the overfit of the bodice was making the arm have all sorts of weird poofiness/wrinkling. After making my Reglisse dress and reading some of the first reviews of Bruyere, I was concerned about the waist being too high, but it hit just about perfectly. So I went back and traced a 44 (that's the second largest size, and I'm only a size 10-12 in RTW--I guess Americans really do run much bigger even than Europeans since I would think that small range of sizes would rather limit the audience for these patterns!). I didn't bother muslining the 44 and just jumped straight to cutting my fashion fabric.


Deer & Doe Bruyere 
Shirt

Deer & Doe Bruyere 
Shirt

Deer & Doe Bruyere 
Shirt

This pattern is classified as advanced, and I'd say it more or less lives up to that. It wasn't really difficult, but it had a lot of parts, and the directions are very minimal. I didn't see any mistakes in them, and they are clear, but there's no hand-holding as in some indie patterns, so I definitely wouldn't undertake this one as an early beginner.

Aside from the arms, this went together perfectly. On both the muslin (in size 42) and my final garment (size 44), the notches in the arms did not match up to the armscythe, so I think there might be a drafting error there? The notches on the sleeve itself are below the notches on the armscythe, so gathering the arm does not solve the problem. It seems to look ok, though, so I guess it didn't matter much.

Deer & Doe Bruyere Shirt
Close up of the back. I promise it doesn't wrinkle when I'm not trying to reach behind my back.

Deer & Doe Bruyere Shirt

Deer & Doe Bruyere Shirt
I love that gently curved hem!

I took my time (which goes totally, totally against my nature! I love as near-to-instant gratification as I can get) and French seamed everything. I am really proud of how good this thing looks on the inside.

Deer & Doe Bruyere Shirt

I used a contrast facing for the yoke/front. I didn't think about the front facings showing if it's not buttoned all the way, so when I make this again, I will probably save the contrast for the back only and self-face the front.

Deer & Doe Bruyere Shirt

The fabric was some mystery thrift store fabric. I think it might be shot cotton since it contains both blue and white threads, but not in any particular pattern. It almost has a metallic sheen to it from some angles. The different colors give it a lot of interest up close, but overall it reads almost as a chambray.

Deer & Doe Bruyere Shirt
My first plackets! I didn't even cry!

It looks just as I imagined it would! I can see from my pictures that I really need to just bite the bullet and do an FBA. I can definitely tell which of my boobs is bigger than the other (thanks,  breastfeeding :/ ). Overall, though, I don't think the fit problems will be noticeable to non-sewers, and they aren't bad enough to bother me. I haven't worn it for any length of time, but it seemed comfortable during my photoshoot, and it will allow me to wear the most comfortable (not)pants to work. Win!

Some outtakes

Deer & Doe Bruyere Shirt
Toddler photobomber! He happens to be wearing Mama-made pants, I notice.

Deer & Doe Bruyere Shirt
What a pose!

Deer & Doe Bruyere Shirt
People are always asking how I get decent pictures of myself. I chuckle since I know that most of them actually look something like this (I was yelling at Will to stop touching the tripod). The key is a ton of pictures. And sometimes I still need to crop out my head. :-)

I'm not sure I like it with the crazy leggings, but at least I have the option!

Sunday, October 12, 2014

Bimaas in the Pumpkin Patch

Pumpkin Patch 2014
Happy Fall!

I made two Bimaas each for the boys last year soon after I got the pattern as part of a big fall package that was released. I love it. For some reason, it's a very fun and satisfying make as testified to by the large numbers you can find all over the blogosphere.

Pumpkin Patch 2014
Let it be noted that the boys created their own outfits. I wouldn't choose PJ pants and flipflops myself...

I never blogged either version. The first set looks great--gray with a black/white plaid for the inside of the hood. However, I neglected to read or follow the directions for fabric choice, and the main fabric I chose was a very beefy something (maybe a ponte?) that has almost no stretch. Well, the Bimaa is a very snug fit, and it needs some serious stretch to work. I could get the first hoodies on, but it took contortions and caused tears to get them on.

Pumpkin Patch 2014
Sometimes they love each other--aww!

I ordered some stretchy knit from Girl Charlee just for these, and they came out nicely. After a year, they still fit OK. Soren's a little less well--he's still got the toddler tummy, so his has always been tighter, plus he's really long-torsoed, so I will definitely be using the 3T for any I make this season, and I should probably add some extra length just for good measure. The 4T fits Will fine.

The fabric hasn't worn particularly well--there's quite a bit of pilling on Soren's gray/green, and Will's red stripe has a little hole in the waistband. It's possible he caught it on something, but I've also known this type of fabric to develop holes, so I'm not sure what happened.

These pictures are taken in our local pumpkin patch. The boys had a great time looking through (seemingly) every pumpkin there and loading up their wagon (they only got to pick a couple of tiny ones each and I picked one for carving--they were pricey!).

They also had a tractor-trolley ride thing, which because the boys were taking their sweet time pumpkin-picking, they managed to ride 4 times. After the last ride, the old man driving the tractor said, "Now get off and go buy some pumpkins!"

Pumpkin Patch 2014
The hoods are huge!

Pumpkin Patch 2014
All better.

Pumpkin Patch 2014
Peer pressure--brother has to put his up too.

Pumpkin Patch 2014
Wheeee!


Well, Will rode 4 times. Soren skipped one ride, which is when I was able to snap some decent pictures of him alone.

Pumpkin Patch 2014

 Pumpkin Patch 2014

Pumpkin Patch 2014

Pumpkin Patch 2014
Philosophizing.  

Pumpkin Patch 2014
Look at those eyelashes!

Pumpkin Patch 2014

Pumpkin Patch 2014

I wanted to get a nice one of the boys together, but that was a big fail. So hard when there are two quickly moving subjects!

Pumpkin Patch 2014
I love this one of Will.