Sunday, October 19, 2014
Deer & Doe Bruyere Shirt: A Review
Bruyere: I think this is only the second pattern I've bought the day it was released. I am one of those people who likes to wait and see how makes are looking in the real world before shelling out almost $20 for a pattern. As soon as I laid eyes on this shirt, though, I was smitten.
I have been admiring everyone's oversized button downs (how many Archer posts have I read??), but I know from experience a big untucked button-down does not look flattering on me. Enter the Bruyere. It's a curvy girl's dream! I love pretty much everything about it--the waistband, the box pleats in the skirt front and back, the beautifully curved hem on the skirt. It's the perfect length, and I even saw where someone had already hacked it to make a dress, which would just involve lengthening the skirts.
So anyway, I HAD TO HAVE IT when I saw it released. On the pattern announcement blog post, I bemoaned the fact that D&D don't release in PDFs, and in reply, Elenore pointed out that actually with the discount, the paper price wasn't that high and I realized that even with shipping, the price was actually less than buying a regular-priced Colette pattern. So, I ended up purchasing 3 patterns to make the shipping from France worth it. After receiving my patterns, I can attest that D&D must take a hit on their international shipping, as I recall it was postmarked 10 Euros, and I think they only charged 5 or 6 Euros. For 3 patterns and shipping, I think my entire purchase was about $35 (dollars, not Euros). I will definitely buy from D&D again at those prices. I hate paying the shipping at Colette, which is around $6 and you can clearly see it only costs about $2 for the postage.
On to the actual pattern....I originally traced a size 42. Muslined the bodice and an arm and decided it was going to be too small, and the overfit of the bodice was making the arm have all sorts of weird poofiness/wrinkling. After making my Reglisse dress and reading some of the first reviews of Bruyere, I was concerned about the waist being too high, but it hit just about perfectly. So I went back and traced a 44 (that's the second largest size, and I'm only a size 10-12 in RTW--I guess Americans really do run much bigger even than Europeans since I would think that small range of sizes would rather limit the audience for these patterns!). I didn't bother muslining the 44 and just jumped straight to cutting my fashion fabric.
This pattern is classified as advanced, and I'd say it more or less lives up to that. It wasn't really difficult, but it had a lot of parts, and the directions are very minimal. I didn't see any mistakes in them, and they are clear, but there's no hand-holding as in some indie patterns, so I definitely wouldn't undertake this one as an early beginner.
Aside from the arms, this went together perfectly. On both the muslin (in size 42) and my final garment (size 44), the notches in the arms did not match up to the armscythe, so I think there might be a drafting error there? The notches on the sleeve itself are below the notches on the armscythe, so gathering the arm does not solve the problem. It seems to look ok, though, so I guess it didn't matter much.
Close up of the back. I promise it doesn't wrinkle when I'm not trying to reach behind my back.
I love that gently curved hem!
I took my time (which goes totally, totally against my nature! I love as near-to-instant gratification as I can get) and French seamed everything. I am really proud of how good this thing looks on the inside.
I used a contrast facing for the yoke/front. I didn't think about the front facings showing if it's not buttoned all the way, so when I make this again, I will probably save the contrast for the back only and self-face the front.
The fabric was some mystery thrift store fabric. I think it might be shot cotton since it contains both blue and white threads, but not in any particular pattern. It almost has a metallic sheen to it from some angles. The different colors give it a lot of interest up close, but overall it reads almost as a chambray.
My first plackets! I didn't even cry!
It looks just as I imagined it would! I can see from my pictures that I really need to just bite the bullet and do an FBA. I can definitely tell which of my boobs is bigger than the other (thanks, breastfeeding :/ ). Overall, though, I don't think the fit problems will be noticeable to non-sewers, and they aren't bad enough to bother me. I haven't worn it for any length of time, but it seemed comfortable during my photoshoot, and it will allow me to wear the most comfortable (not)pants to work. Win!
Toddler photobomber! He happens to be wearing Mama-made pants, I notice.
What a pose!
People are always asking how I get decent pictures of myself. I chuckle since I know that most of them actually look something like this (I was yelling at Will to stop touching the tripod). The key is a ton of pictures. And sometimes I still need to crop out my head. :-)
I'm not sure I like it with the crazy leggings, but at least I have the option!